Expert guide to Monaco
It is easy to disdain Monaco. I used to do so, dismissing the principality as nothing but a high-rise ghetto for tax avoiders, zillionaire security obsessives, a comic-opera royal family and all the glamour that is Boris Becker. But such cynicism is silly. Of course, the place is a packed little bubble of extravagance, luxury and many policemen. But it’s also a show, an engrossing spectacle unique in Europe.
Naturally, you must suspend disbelief to appreciate it fully. The principality would, after all, fit more than 200 times into Rutland – yet it has three princesses, a prince and managed a full-blown royal wedding in the summer of 2011. The wedding may have had its dodgy moments of controversy, but it was something that no other small seaside town could have managed. And - better yet - the marriage produced not one but two babies when, on December 10, 2014, Princess Charlene gave birth to twins Gabrielle and Jacques.
Monaco takes itself terribly seriously. The principality also plunges now and again into scandal - shaken, for instance, in late 2017 by alleged shenanigans starring a Russian billionaire, a Swiss art dealer and a Monegasque government minister. It perhaps goes with the territory. At any event, I - in common with other ordinary mortals - shall never qualify to be a Monegasque. But we can all have walk-on parts in the never-never-land production. And, at least once in our lives, we should.
Where to go in Monaco
Start up on the Rock where Monaco itself started. Be before the Princely Palace at 11.55am for the daily changing of the guard. Then wander the narrow streets of the old town - buffed up as if for a royal visit at any moment. Take in the wonderful Oceanographic Museum, before descending to the Port Hercule - and up the other headland to Monte Carlo, the casino, the limos, the posh shops and magnificent gardens. That's it. You're through with the essentials.
Latest articles
Read all of our latest articles on Monaco, including guides to the main attractions, the city's best museums and galleries, lesser known bars and attractions and more
Know before you go
Local laws and etiquette
Monaco law requires that you always have personal ID about your person, so keep your passport on you. Monégasque police – all recruited in France – are ubiquitous and not renowned as jokers.
When introduced to someone, shake him or her by the hand. All that cheek-kissing comes a little later (considerably later between men), when acquaintance has been struck up.
Note that, when offered something (a fill-up of your wine glass, more bread, a minor treat), simply saying “Merci” indicates refusal, as in “No, thank you”.
This is quite different from British practice, where saying a simple “Thank you” implies acceptance, as in “Yes, thank you”. So, if you want your wine glass filled or more bread, don’t say: “Merci”. Say “Oui, s’il vous plait.”
Round-the-clock snacking is far less common in Monaco than in the UK – as is eating or drinking in the street. You are unlikely to draw admiring glances if you’re walking along at 4pm with pizza in one hand, a can of beer in the other.
Essential information
Monaco is covered by the British Consulate in Marseilles (00 33 491 157210), 24 Avenue du Prado, Marseilles. Open Mon, Wed, Fri, 9am-12.30pm.
British Embassy, Paris: 00 33 144 513100; ukinfrance.fco.gov.uk/en
Monaco Emergency services: dial 112
Monaco Tourist Office (00 377 92 16 61 16; visitmonaco.com), 2 Boulevard des Moulins
The basics
Currency: Euro
Telephone code: dial 00 377 if telephoning Monaco from the UK
Time difference: + 1 hour
Flight time: London to Nice is around two hours
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